Glossary — decoding charm words and terms

Charm Collector's Glossary

A directory of charm-related words to help you build your charm bracelet

A

Abalone A marine mollusk, recognised for its ear-shaped shell lined with iridescent nacre, used for ornamental use in charms, jewellery, and inlay work.

Acrostic Charms Charms and jewellery that use gemstones arranged so that the first letter of each stone’s name spells out a hidden message or word, often conveying sentimental expressions like “LOVE” (Lapis, Opal, Verdelite, Emerald).

Acrylic A lightweight, shatter-resistant, crystal-clear plastic, often used in charms in place of glass; for example, the walls of a bottle.

Agate A type of banded chalcedony quartz valued for its distinctive layers and grounding properties, often carved or set into amulets.

Albert Chain A traditional watch chain originally designed in the 19th century to secure a pocket watch to a waistcoat, typically featuring a T-bar on one end and often used today to hold charms or as a stylish accessory in vintage-inspired jewellery.

Amber Fossilised tree resin, often golden to reddish-brown in colour, that has been prized for thousands of years in jewellery and charms for its warm lustre.

Amulet A pendant or charm worn in the hope of protecting the wearer from evil or illness or to bring the wearer good luck. Similar to a talisman (see entry under 'T').

Anchor Link A style of bracelet or chain link, an oval link with central crossbar.

Antique A charm that is over 100 years old, often with historical significance and cherished for its aged patina, period-specific design, and collectible value.

Argentium A modern, tarnish-resistant sterling silver alloy containing a higher percentage of pure silver and a touch of germanium, prized in British jewellery-making for its bright lustre and hypoallergenic qualities.

Art Deco Recognised by geometric shapes and angles, and originating in Paris, France, this style was popular from the mid 1910s up until the mid 1930s, often reflected in charms through the use of enamel and gemstones.

Art Nouveau A decorative style from the late 19th and early 20th centuries characterised by flowing, organic lines and nature-inspired motifs, frequently seen in charms featuring intricate floral designs and sinuous curves.

Articulated A charm with moving parts, often mechanical or hinged. Alloy A metal made by combining two or more metallic elements, such as sterling silver.

Aurora Borealis or AB An iridescent coating, applied to crystals, that mimics the shifting colours of the northern lights, adding a shimmering, rainbow-like effect.

B

Baguette A gemstone shape that is narrow, rectangular cut with straight edges and step-like facets.

Bail A loop used to attach a charm to a necklace or bracelet.

Bakelite A plastic developed in the early 20th century, valued for its vibrant colours and durability, and widely used in vintage charms and costume jewellery.

Baroque Pearl Irregularly shaped pearls chosen for their unique forms and lustrous surfaces, often used in artistic charm designs that emphasise individuality.

Base Metal A non-precious metal such as copper, brass, lead, or zinc, often used as a core material beneath plating or in costume jewellery due to its affordability and ease of shaping.

Basse-taille An enamelling technique where translucent enamel is applied over a metal surface that has been intricately engraved or stamped in low relief, allowing light to reflect through the enamel and reveal the detailed design beneath with shimmering depth.

Bezel Setting Also less commonly known as a gypsy setting, is a technique where a gemstone is securely encircled by a rim of metal that holds it flush with the charm’s surface.

Birthstone Charm A charm featuring a gemstone associated with a birth month.

Blister Pearl A type of pearl that forms attached to the inside of a mollusc’s shell rather than freely within its tissue, often cut out with part of the shell backing and used in jewellery for its unique, half-domed appearance and natural charm.

Book Chain Also known as Venetian chain, is a style of Victorian-era necklace or bracelet composed of interlocking, flat, rectangular links resembling the spine of a book. Often used as a decorative base for suspending ornate or sentimental charms, the links are sometimes ornately engraved.

C

Cabochon A gemstone that has been polished into a smooth, rounded dome with no facets, typically with a flat back.

Cameo A decorative motif carved in relief, typically featuring a contrasting profile or scene on materials like shell, coral, or agate.

Cannetille A delicate technique, similar to filigree, involving fine gold or silver wires or thin sheets shaped into intricate patterns, often deeply textured, used to embellish vintage charms with ornate, lace-like detailing.

Carat Measurement of the purity of gold; see Gold entry below.

Carnelian A warm, reddish-orange variety of chalcedony quartz prized for its rich colour and smooth polish, sometimes used in charms for its believed properties of courage and vitality.

Cartouche An oval or oblong frame, often used to contain engraved or relief initials, names, or symbolic motifs, inspired by ancient Egyptian designs.

Celluloid An early type of plastic known for its lightweight and colourful appearance, it was commonly used in vintage costume jewellery to create affordable and vibrant charms.

Chain Link The structural element of bracelets that hold charms.

Chalcedony A cryptocrystalline form of silica, containing fine particles of quartz and moganite, characterised by its smooth, waxy lustre and a wide range of translucent colours, often carved or polished into cabochons. Familiar varieties of chalcedony include agate, carnelian, chrysoprase, and onyx.

Champlevé Enamel A decorative technique where recesses are carved or cast into the metal surface of a charm and then filled with enamel, which is fired and polished to create colourful, detailed designs flush with the surrounding metal.

Channel Setting A technique where gemstones are set closely together in a metal groove or channel, held in place without prongs, creating a sleek, continuous line of stones that enhances durability and provides a modern, streamlined look.

Charm A small decorative trinket or pendant, often symbolic or sentimental, designed to be attached to a bracelet or necklace, traditionally worn to represent personal memories, beliefs, or milestones.

Charm Bracelet A chain or bangle to which charms are attached.

Charm Carrier A central component designed to hold multiple charms on a necklace or bracelet.

Chatelaine An ornamental clasp or hook worn at the waist, historically used to suspend useful items like keys, watches, or sewing tools, and later adapted into charm jewellery as a decorative and functional way to display multiple pendants or trinkets.

Chatoyancy The optical effect where a stone displays a luminous, 'cat’s-eye' band of reflected light that appears to move as the gem is turned, enhancing its visual appeal and uniqueness.

Citrine A transparent variety of quartz ranging in colour from pale yellow to deep amber, prized for its warm hue and affordability, and often used in jewellery for its association with positivity, energy, and abundance.

Claddagh A traditional Irish design featuring two hands holding a heart topped with a crown, symbolising friendship, love, and loyalty, and is often worn as a meaningful emblem in charm bracelets and pendants.

Clasp A fastening device that securely joins the two ends of the bracelet together, with styles such as lobster, toggle, magnetic, or box clasps providing both functional closure and, in some designs, decorative detail.

Claw Setting Setting Also known as a prong setting, a technique where metal claws or prongs grip the gemstone at its girdle, holding it securely in place while allowing maximum light to enter and enhance the stone’s brilliance.

Cloisonné An ancient enamelling technique where thin metal wires are affixed to a metal surface to create compartments (cloisons), which are then filled with enamel paste and fired, resulting in vibrant, decorative designs with a slightly raised outline.

Collector's Piece A rare or highly sought-after charm.

Coral An organic material formed from the skeletons of marine polyps, valued for its rich red, pink, or white hues and often carved into delicate shapes or beads for use in traditional and vintage jewellery.

Curb Link A style of chain characterised by twisted, interlocking links that lie neatly flat against the wrist, providing a sturdy and classic base for attaching charms.

D

Damascene The intricate art of inlaying different metals into one another, often gold or silver into iron or steel, creating decorative patterns seen in charms and jewellery.

Dichroic Glass A type of decorative glass used in charms that displays two or more colours by selectively reflecting and transmitting light, creating a shimmering, colour-shifting effect.

Dog Clip Clasp A spring-loaded clasp for attaching charms; similar to those seen on dogs’ leads.

Date Letter A hallmark indicating the year of manufacture.

E

Edwardian Period spanning 1901 to 1910.

Electroplating A technique used in charm making where a thin layer of metal, such as gold or silver, is deposited onto the surface of a base metal to enhance appearance and prevent tarnishing.

Enamel A coloured glassy coating fused onto metal charms to create vibrant, durable designs, with styles including cloisonné, where enamel is separated by metal strips; champlevé, where enamel fills recessed areas; and plique-à-jour, which resembles stained glass with translucent enamel panels.

Engraved The technique of carving or incising detailed designs or inscriptions into the surface of a charm, often adding personalised or intricate decorative elements.

Etched The process of using acid or another chemical to create detailed, recessed designs on the surface of a charm, producing fine patterns with a textured finish.

Estate Charm A previously owned charm, often vintage.

Etruscan A style of charm design inspired by the ancient civilisation of central Italy, characterised by intricate granulation and twisted wire motifs.

F

Faux A French word, meaning imitation, that describes charms or jewellery made to imitate the appearance of precious materials, such as gemstones, pearls or metals, without using the genuine substances, often offering a more affordable alternative.

Figa Originating from ancient Mediterranean cultures, is a small amulet shaped like a clenched fist with the thumb protruding between the index and middle fingers, traditionally believed to offer protection against evil and bad luck.

Filigree A delicate jewellery technique used in charms, involving intricate patterns of fine metal threads twisted and soldered together to create lacy, ornamental designs.

Findings The small components used in charm-making, such as clasps, jump rings, and hooks, that connect and secure different parts of the jewellery piece.

Fleur-de-lis A stylised, symmetrical lily motif commonly featured in charm designs, symbolising purity and often associated with French heraldry and royalty.

Fob A small decorative charm or pendant, traditionally attached to a pocket watch chain, often personalised or intricately designed to reflect the wearer’s style.

Fold-over Clasp A secure fastening mechanism commonly used in charm bracelets and necklaces, featuring a hinged piece that folds over a bar or catch to lock the jewellery in place.

Fool’s Gold Often mistaken for real gold due to its metallic lustre and brassy hue, is actually the mineral pyrite, sometimes carried as a charm in British folklore to attract wealth while warding off deceit.

Friendship Charm Given as a symbol of companionship.

Freshwater Pearl Formed within mussels in rivers and lakes rather than the sea, often used in charm designs.

G

Gold Gold carats (known as 'karats' kt in the USA), their gold content as a percentage, and their corresponding metal purity stamp numbers, using British and Australian conventions. Those in bold are the most commonly used and recognised.

Carat (ct)	Gold Content (%)	Purity Stamp Number
24 ct	99.9% (Pure Gold)	999
22 ct	91.6%	916
20 ct	83.3%	833
18 ct	75.0%	750
15 ct	62.5%	625
14 ct	58.5%	585
12 ct	50.0%	500
10 ct	41.7%	417
9 ct	37.5%	375
8 ct	33.3%	333

Gold filled A durable material made by mechanically bonding a thick layer of gold—at least 5% of the item’s total weight—to a base metal, often used in British charm-making to offer the look and lasting quality of gold at a more affordable price.

Gold Plated A base metal coated with a thin layer of gold using electroplating, far less substantial than gold filled, making it more affordable but less durable and prone to quicker wear in comparison to gold filled.

Gemstone A precious or semi-precious stone used in charms.

Gilt A thin layer of gold applied to a surface, is often used in charms and amulets throughout British history to evoke the appearance of wealth and attract good fortune without the expense of solid gold.

Guard Chain Also known as a Safety Chain, it attaches to a charm bracelet or watch, a small safety chain designed to prevent accidental loss if the clasp comes undone.

Guilloché A decorative technique achieved by engine-turned or intricately engraved metal patterns. Usually translucent enamel is then applied over the surface to create a shimmering, textured effect in charms and jewellery.

H

Hairwork The intricate art of weaving or incorporating human hair—often from a loved one—into charms and mourning jewellery.

Hallmark An official mark stamped on precious metal charms and jewellery to certify the metal’s purity, origin, and authenticity, offering assurance of quality and often including the maker’s mark and assay office symbol.

Hamsa Also known as Hand of Fatima, a palm-shaped charm with roots in Middle Eastern and North African traditions, often worn as a protective symbol believed to ward off evil and bring blessings, power, and good fortune.

Heart Charm A small, decorative pendant shaped like a heart, traditionally symbolising love or affection and frequently added to bracelets or necklaces as a sentimental keepsake.

Hinged A small mechanical feature allowing a charm—such as a locket or a miniature box—to open and close on a pivoting joint, much like a door, enabling it to conceal a photo, message, or tiny object within.

I

Ingot Charm A small, solid, rectangular pendant resembling a traditional metal ingot, usually crafted from precious metals like gold or silver, and typically symbolising wealth, prosperity, or good fortune.

Initial Charm A personalised pendant shaped as a single letter, usually representing the wearer’s own initial or that of a loved one, and is commonly worn on bracelets or necklaces to convey identity or sentimental value.

Inlay A decorative technique where materials such as enamel, gemstones, or coloured resin are precisely set into recessed areas of the charm’s surface to create intricate patterns or imagery with contrasting textures or colours.

Intaglio A design engraved into the surface of a gemstone or metal so that the image is recessed, allowing it to leave a raised impression when pressed into wax—a technique often used in signet rings and traditional seals.

Iridescence The optical phenomenon where the surface of a material, such as mother-of-pearl or certain enamel finishes, displays a spectrum of shimmering colours that shift with changes in light or angle, caused by the physical structure interfering with light reflection.

J

Jade A semi-precious stone often used in carved pendants and charms.
Jadeite – The rarer and more valuable form, often vibrant green (but can appear in other colours too).
Nephrite – More common, typically found in creamy white to green shades.

Jet A black fossilised wood often used as a gemstone in mourning jewellery, especially in Victorian times.

Jewelled A piece that is adorned with one or more gemstones—precious or semi-precious—either set into the metal or affixed decoratively, enhancing its visual appeal

Jewellery Roll A soft, roll-up case used for storing jewellery during travel.

Jump Ring A metal ring used to attach a charm to a chain bracelet. The term 'closed jump ring' means that the opening on the ring has been soldered permanently closed.

K

Karat See 'Gold' entry above.

Keepsake A small, meaningful token—often a pendant or charm—designed to preserve the memory of a person, place, or event.

Keshi Pearl A naturally occurring, non-nucleated pearl often formed as a by-product of cultured pearl farming; prized for its irregular shape and lustrous surface.

Knot A symbolic design element in jewellery, such as the lover’s knot or Celtic knot, representing unity or eternity.

L

Lapidary Craftsperson who cuts, shapes, and polishes stones.

Laser Engraving A precise technique using laser beams to inscribe designs or text onto jewellery surfaces.

Lobster Clasp Also known as a 'Lobster Claw', a spring-loaded, self-closing fastener

Locket A pendant, often heart- or oval-shaped, with a hinged opening designed to hold a photograph or small keepsake.

Loupe A small magnifying glass used by jewellers to inspect gemstones and metalwork for clarity and craftsmanship.

Love Token An antique coin that has been smoothed and intricately engraved—often with initials, messages, or decorative motifs.

Luminescence The emission of light by a gemstone or material not caused by heat, such as fluorescence or phosphorescence.

Lustre The quality and intensity of light reflected from the surface of a gemstone or pearl.

M

Maker’s Mark A symbol or set of initials used by jewellers and silversmiths to identify the creator and authenticate the piece’s origin.

Maltese Cross A symmetrical emblem with four V-shaped arms meeting at right angles, historically associated with the Knights of Malta and symbolising bravery and honour.

Mechanical Charm A charm that features moving or opening parts, via hinges or specially designed parts.

Micromosaic An intricate decorative piece created by assembling hundreds of tiny, coloured glass tesserae to form detailed images or patterns, often set in gold or silver.

Milgrain A decorative beaded edging applied to metalwork in jewellery.

Millefiori A glasswork technique that produces intricate, multicoloured patterns by fusing and slicing patterned glass canes.

Mother-of-pearl The iridescent inner shell layer of certain molluscs, used as an inlay or background material in charms, pendants, and watch dials.

Mourning Charms Created to commemorate deceased loved ones, often incorporating black materials like jet or onyx

Mould A hollow form used in casting metals or resin to create charms and jewellery components.

N

Nacre The iridescent substance that lines the inside of certain mollusc shells and forms the outer coating of pearls

Necklace A piece of jewellery worn around the neck, ranging from simple chains to elaborate designs with pendants, beads, or gemstones.

Nickel Silver A silvery alloy of nickel, copper, and zinc with no actual silver content, used in costume jewellery and sometimes as a base for plating.

Niello A black metal alloy used as an inlay for engraved silver jewellery, especially in antique and historical pieces, creating strong contrast and fine detail.

Noble Metal Fine, corrosion-resistant metals like gold, platinum, and silver prized for their lustre and durability.

O

Obverse The opposite of reverse, obverse refers to the front or principal side, often bearing the main design or inscription.

Openwork A decorative design featuring intentional gaps or cut-outs, allowing light to pass through and enhancing visual intricacy.

Opal Doublet A composite gemstone made by layering a thin slice of natural opal onto a dark backing (often ironstone or obsidian) to enhance its colour play.

Opal Triplet A three-part composite stone consisting of a thin opal slice sandwiched between a dark base and a clear domed cap (usually quartz or glass), used to protect and amplify the appearance of the opal.

Opaque The opposite of transparency, a material or finish that does not allow light to pass through.

Orb Charm A rounded, often gilded or bejewelled form symbolising sovereignty or unity.

Oxidised A surface treatment applied to silver or other metals to create a darkened, antique-style patina, enhancing engraved or textured details.

P

Palladium A rare, naturally white precious metal in the platinum group, used in fine jewellery for its strength, lightness, and hypoallergenic properties.

Paste a type of glass used to imitate gemstones, often set to add sparkle without the cost of precious stones.

Patina The natural or artificially induced surface colouring that develops on metals over time, often valued for adding character, depth, and a vintage or antique appeal to charms.

Pavé Setting A stone-setting technique in which small gemstones are closely set together with minimal visible metal, creating a surface that appears “paved” with sparkle.

Pearl An organic gemstone formed within molluscs, composed of nacre; available in natural, cultured, freshwater, and saltwater varieties.

Pendant A decorative piece that hangs freely from a chain or bracelet, often serving as a focal point or symbolic token.

Pewter A malleable metal alloy, traditionally made from tin, used for crafting detailed yet affordable decorative pieces.

Pietra Dura A decorative technique where finely cut, coloured stones are inlaid into a base to create intricate, mosaic-like designs.

Pinchbeck A historical alloy of copper and zinc designed to imitate gold, commonly used in 18th- and 19th-century costume jewellery.

Piqué A decorative technique where precious metals or mother-of-pearl are inlaid into tortoiseshell or other materials to create intricate patterns.

Platinum A dense, highly durable precious metal known for its naturally white colour and resistance to tarnish, used in fine jewellery.

Plique-à-jour An enamelling technique where translucent enamel is applied in cells without a backing, creating a stained-glass effect when light shines through.

Plating The process of applying a thin layer of metal—such as gold, rhodium, or silver—over a base metal to enhance appearance or prevent tarnish.

Polish The smoothness and shine on the surface of a metal or gemstone, achieved through polishing during the finishing processes.

Precious Metal Metals such as gold, silver, and platinum that are rare, naturally occurring, and widely used in fine jewellery due to their beauty and resistance to corrosion.

Puffed Charm A hollow, three-dimensional charm with a slightly inflated appearance, designed to be lightweight while giving the illusion of fullness.

Putti Small, cherubic figures—often depicted as winged infants—used as decorative motifs symbolising love, innocence, or playfulness.

Q

Quartz A widely used mineral in jewellery, available in many varieties including amethyst (purple), citrine (yellow), rose quartz (pink), smoky quartz (brown-grey), and clear rock crystal.

Quatrefoil A charm motif composed of four rounded lobes, traditionally symbolising harmony and often used in Gothic and decorative arts.

R

Repoussé A metalworking technique in which malleable metal is shaped by hammering from the reverse side to create a raised design, often used to craft intricate charms.

Retro Designs inspired by styles from past decades, often evoking nostalgic fashion and vintage flair.

Rhinestone A sparkling imitation gem, often made from glass or acrylic, used in charms to mimic the appearance of diamonds or other precious stones.

Rhodium Plated A charm coated with a thin layer of rhodium, a rare, silvery-white metal, to enhance brightness and resist tarnishing.

Rolled Gold A material created by bonding a thin layer of gold to a base metal, commonly used in jewellery and charms for a durable, gold-like finish.

Rose Gold A warm, pink-hued alloy of gold and copper, often used in charms for its romantic and vintage-inspired appearance.

S

Safety Chain A small linked chain attached to both ends of a charm bracelet clasp, designed to prevent loss if the clasp accidentally opens.

Satin Finish A matte or brushed surface texture on metal; a soft alternative to high polish, reflective finishes.

Scarab A charm shaped like the sacred beetle of ancient Egypt, symbolising protection, rebirth, and good fortune.

Seed Pearl A tiny, naturally formed pearl often used in charm designs for delicate embellishment and antique appeal.

Silver A precious metal used widely in jewellery, often alloyed as sterling silver (92.5% silver) for strength and durability. See silver table below.

Sister Clasp A dual-loop fastening in jewellery, allowing two separate chains or charms to be joined together.

Slider Charm A charm designed to glide smoothly along a bracelet or necklace, by way of a wide hole.

Spring Ring A circular clasp used in necklaces and bracelets, consisting of a spring-loaded mechanism inside a hollow ring.

Stanhope Charm A charm containing a tiny hidden lens that reveals a miniature photograph or message when viewed closely, adding a secret, sentimental touch.

Sweetheart Jewellery Sentimental charms and keepsakes given by soldiers to loved ones during World Wars I and II, often featuring military motifs or patriotic symbols as tokens of affection and remembrance.

Silver The following table lists the recognised purity standards of silver in the UK and Australia (and in many other countries). In the UK, Sterling Silver (925) is the most widely used standard for jewellery and silverware. Britannia Silver (958) is an older and slightly purer standard, historically used for coinage and some hallmarked pieces. Fine Silver (999) is usually reserved for bullion and investment-grade products rather than practical items due to its softness. German Silver or Nickel Silver contains no actual silver — it’s an alloy of nickel, copper, and zinc and must not be misrepresented as genuine silver. As with gold, silver items in the UK over 7.78 grams must be hallmarked by an approved assay office to verify purity.

Silver Type	Silver Content (%)	Purity Stamp Number	Common Name
Fine Silver	99.9%	999	Pure Silver
Britannia Silver	95.8%	958	Britannia Silver
Sterling Silver	92.5%	925	Sterling Silver
Coin Silver (less common)	90.0%	900	Coin Silver
Continental Silver (rare)	83.5%	835	European Standard Silver
German Silver (not actual silver)	0%	N/A	Nickel Silver / Base Metal

 

T

Taille d’épargne A decorative engraving technique, often used in charms, where a design is cut into metal and the recessed areas are filled with enamel to create intricate, colourful patterns.

Talisman A charm believed to possess magical properties, often worn for protection or to attract good fortune.

Tarnish The dulling or discolouration that occurs on metal charms over time due to a chemical reaction with air, light or moisture.

Titanium A strong, lightweight, and corrosion-resistant metal.

Toggle Clasp A fastening consisting of a bar that fits through a circular loop

Trefoil A charm design featuring a three-lobed shape, often symbolising luck, faith, or unity in decorative and heraldic traditions.

U

Ultrasonic Cleaner A device that uses high-frequency sound waves in liquid to clean jewellery by dislodging dirt and debris from intricate settings and crevices.

V

Vermeil A jewellery finish consisting of a layer of gold plated over sterling silver, offering a more affordable alternative to solid gold.

Victorian Period spanning 1837 to 1901; Queen Victoria's reign.

Vinaigrette A small, decorative charm or locket with a pierced inner lid, historically used to hold scented substances to mask unpleasant odours.

Vintage From a previous era—typically between 20 and 100 years old—valued for their nostalgic design, craftsmanship, and enduring appeal.

W

White Gold A silvery-gold alloy created by blending pure gold with white metals. See Gold entry above.

Y

Yellow Gold An alloy of pure gold mixed with metals like copper and silver to enhance durability while retaining its traditional warm, rich golden colour. See Gold entry above.

Z

Zodiac Charm A charm representing an astrological sign, often worn to reflect personal traits or celestial influences associated with one’s birth date.